I'd like to invite this paper's film critic for lunch, because it seems thatin Peter Bradshaw's otherwise brilliant reviews, "glutinous" is Not A Good Thing: "Glutinous, infantile and regressive," he wrote of a one-star Jennifer Garner film afew months ago. The aim ofthis lunch would be to take the word "glutinous" and reclaim itas analtogether positive thing.
I recently wrote about my shift in loyalty from long-grain white to short-grain brown rice. Being greedy and fickle, as ever, I've sincemoved one shade on and nowcan't stop reaching for blackglutinous rice. Inspite of the name, this rice isa very deep burgundy in colour; it's also, like most rice, gluten-free. Not only that, it is gloriously nutty in taste, beautiful to look at and hasa soft, starchy texture that, becauseeach grain retains its integrity when cooked, is slightly al dente, too.
Black glutinous rice works in both savoury and sweet dishes. It's a popular pudding rice in south-east Asia, where you'll often come across it cooked with water, coconut milk and a pandan leaf. Once the liquid hasbeen absorbed, palm or brown sugar is added, along with a pinch of salt. The rice can then be eaten just as it is or, for extra sweetness, with diced fresh mango or banana.
In savoury dishes, meanwhile, it is used as a striking alternative to other short-grain rices. I recently served some with harissa-marinated chicken thighs and a bright green salad, and it worked a treat. Like brown rice, black rice is unmilled, and it is the dark outer husk that makes it so nutty and chewy. It's also why it takes longer to cook than many other rices.
For the best results, soak the rice overnight, drain, then cook in simmering water, stirring often to release the starch and increase its creamy softness. Like all rice, black rice is great at absorbing flavours, but it's just as happy to act as a satiny bed for a poached egg, say, ifyou want to keep things simple.
Italian nerone rice, which you can get in large supermarkets and many healthfood shops, works fine – but it is ketan hitam, the south-east Asian (mostly Thai) black glutinous rice, that you should seek out (try Asian stores or online). This will give the best results in the glutinous stakes – unless Jennifer Garner happens tobe atthe next table, of course.
Seared girolles with black glutinous rice
Soak the rice overnight, or it will take a very long time to cook. To make this dairy-free, just leave out the curd. Girolles, which aren't always easy to find, can be replaced by oyster mushrooms. Serves four.
2½ tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
6 shallots, peeled and chopped
Shaved skin of 1 lemon (in aslarge pieces as possible, so it's easy to fishout later)
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
Salt and black pepper
200g black glutinous rice, soaked overnight
600g girolles, brushed clean
1½ tsp truffle oil
5g unsalted butter
½ tsp grated lemon zest, plus extrato finish
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
120g goat's curd (or a soft and mild goat's cheese)
Pour a tablespoon of the oil into amedium saucepan. Add the shallots,lemon skin, thyme, bay leaf, half a teaspoon of salt and someblack pepper, and place on amedium-low heat. Cook for five tosix minutes, until the shallots aresoft. Drain the soaked black rice and add to the pan. Add 400ml of water, bring to aboil, reduce to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 35to 40 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the rice is well cooked and has a starchy consistency. Remove and discard the lemon, thyme and bay, and keep the rice somewhere warm until serving.
Pour the remaining oil into afrying pan and add the girolles, aquarter-teaspoon of saltand some black pepper. Sauté for about five minutes, stirring so that the mushroom take on some colour all over, then remove the pan from theheat and add the truffle oil, butter, grated lemon zest, lemon juice and tarragon.
To serve, spoon the black rice on to individual plates, top first withthe mushrooms and then withthe goat's curd, drizzle alittle more olive oil over the top and scatter on some more grated lemonzest.
Leek and lime gratin
Use fresh or frozen lime leaves to make this vegetarian gratin, which tastes uncannily like a Thaigreen curry. If you can't get hold of any, and so have to use freeze-dried lime leaves instead, addas many as you need to get that distinctive flavour. Serves four.
6 large leeks
75ml olive oil
6 shallots, peeled and chopped
Shaved skin of 1 lime
1 stalk lemongrass, lightly bruised
4 kaffir lime leaves, fresh or frozen (use freeze-dried only if you have noother choice)
Salt
1 large garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 green chilli, thinly sliced
100ml white wine
450ml vegetable stock
100g panko breadcrumbs
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
120ml crème fraîche
20g chopped fresh coriander leaves
Slice the leeks lengthways and cut them into 5cm-long segments. Rinsewell but gently, then dry equally carefully – you don't want the pieces of leek to fall apart.
You'll need a large, ovenproof sautépan, for which you have a lid. On a medium-high flame, heat two tablespoons of the oil in the pan, add the shallots, lime skin, lemongrass, lime leaves and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and sauté for eight minutes, stirring from time to time, until the shallots have softened. Add the garlic and chilli, and cook for another two to three minutes. Pour in the wine and let it bubble until theliquid has reduced by half – about two minutes.
Carefully place the leeks on top ofthe shallot mixture, so they endup lying flat in one layer, then pour over the vegetable stock – theleeks should be just covered. Pop on the lid and leave to simmer for five to eight minutes, until the leeks are tender. Lift out the leeks with a slotted spoon and set aside; remove and discard the lime skin, lime leaves and lemongrass.
While the leeks are cooking, putthe breadcrumbs in a bowl withthe rest of the oil, the lime juice and a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Rub the mixture with your hands, sothe breadcrumbs clump togethera bit like crumble topping, then set aside.
Returning to the sauté pan, stir atablespoon or two of the hot stockinto the crème fraîche, to warm it through, then whisk the crème fraîche into the pan. Turn down the heat to low and slowly reduce the liquid until you are left with about 350ml.
Meanwhile, heat the grill. Stir the coriander into the stock, then return the leeks to the pan. Sprinkle the panko mix evenly over the top and place under the hot grill for 10 minutes, until the breadcrumbs take on some colour. Leave to rest for aminute or two, then serve hot.
